For anyone harbouring an interest in Britain’s ancient past, the Roman Baths in Bath are one of those places you have to visit. Dating back to 70 AD, they were in action for about 400 years. In other words, throughout the Romans’ rule over the majority of Britain.
That lasted from 43 to 410 AD and had a deep impact on the development of these islands. The Romans built new urbanised towns, a complex network of roads and luxurious villas, as well as introducing a distinct Romano-British culture and even the Christian religion (in 313 AD).
Although the baths fell into disuse soon after they left, only to be rediscovered in 1878 hidden below ground, the three natural hot springs continued to attract health-seekers from far and wide for centuries to come. Then, the popularity of the thermal water treatment peaked again in the Georgian period (1714-1830), sparking Bath’s renaissance as the most fashionable city in Britain.
In search of Sulis
The story behind the baths’ creation is quite fascinating. The Romans built them in tandem with a temple that they erected beside a hot spring deemed supernatural because it bubbled forth water at 46°C. Even before the Romans, the local Celts had linked this inexplicable oddity to the water being inhabited by a goddess called Sulis, whom they worshipped and brought offerings to.
The religiously tolerant Romans not only continued this practice but also amalgamated it with their goddess Minerva. Thus the temple they subsequently built in honour of Sulis Minerva symbolises a curious intermingling of two different belief systems.
At the same time, they conveyed the mineral-rich water from the Sacred Spring (whose specific properties you can read about here) to a grand public bath for citizens of all ranks to come and bathe in. In such a way, the Roman Baths in Bath served as a sort of religious and spa centre catering to both physical and spiritual cleanliness.
Meanwhile the settlement that sprung up around the complex the Romans fittingly named Aquae Sulis, or the Waters of Sulis. It was picturesquely situated by a bend in the River Avon overlooked by hills and still forms the historic heart of modern-day Bath.
Roman footsteps
The largest city in Somerset, Bath is the only city in the UK to be, as a whole, a UNESCO World Site. It has a host of interesting things to see and do. However, the Roman Baths are the undoubted star attraction, visited by over 1 million people a year. Indeed, it really is amazing, despite the hordes of tourists, to think that you’re actually walking where the Romans did 2,000-odd years ago.
Bathhouses like this were central to Roman life, as much as places to wash and attend to one’s personal hygiene as to meet family and friends, relax, socialise and share news. In addition, they served as an effective means of promoting the Roman way of life in newly conquered lands.
A quick tour
From the street, the Roman Baths in Bath don’t look like much, but that’s only because much of the complex is tucked away below ground. The complex comprises the main Great Bath and several connected saunas and changing rooms, the Roman Temple, the Sacred Spring, and a museum filled with fascinating artefacts.
The latter goes into depth about Roman Britain, Aquae Sulis, the Roman Baths and those who used them – a mix of locals and pilgrims from far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. Moreover, how they used the baths is imaginatively brought to life with the aid of film projections of Roman characters.
The star exhibit is a bronze bust of the goddess Sulis Minerva. Another prominent one is the Beau Street Hoard, a huge collection of 17,660 Roman coins discovered beneath a hotel in Bath as recently as 2007. Plus, there’s a captivating collection of so-called curse tablets – thin strips of metal on which people scribbled messages cursing those who had in some way wronged them (e.g. by stealing) before throwing them into the Sacred Spring for Sulis Minerva to work her magic.
Personal impressions
I particularly enjoyed pottering around the Main Bath, admiring its time-worn stones and peering into the 1.6 metres deep water. I could almost imagine it bustling with bathers babbling away in Latin.
Incidentally, while you can’t bathe at the Roman Baths today, you can still drink the water in the Pump Room Restaurant upstairs. And, you can actually ‘take the waters’ at the modern Thermae Bath Spa located a few streets away.
Another personal highlight was the view from the terrace above the Main Bath, lined with Victorian-era statues of Roman emperors and governors, and with the gothic Bath Abbey looming in the background.
Overall, I found my recent visit both educational and enjoyable. Tickets are pricey at just over £20 for adults, but I think that’s worthwhile to spend a few hours acquainting yourself with some of the best-preserved Roman ruins in northern Europe. I certainly left intrigued to learn more about Britain’s mysterious Roman heritage.
