There are many cool things to do in Azerbaijan for those adventurous enough to explore this still quite off-the-radar country. There’s Baku’s wonderful Old City, the underrated cuisine which is a mishmash of regional influences, and the charming city of Sheki, dotted with mosques, hammams, caravanserais and cobbled streets all redolent of the Silk Road. I’ve written about these and many more in my Unique Things to Do in Azerbaijan article.
And hiking is definitely up there with the very best of them. In fact, this was perhaps my favourite outdoor activity while I lived and worked in Azerbaijan between 2014 and 2022. If ever I was feeling some stress, an effective remedy was often to escape up a mountain. For the final three years I worked for the Azerbaijan Tourism Board, which gave me an unparalleled insight into the country’s emerging tourism opportunities. And one of the most amazing experiences I had in that job was testing out a number of newly marked hiking routes in various parts of the country to write descriptions of them.
Between 2014 and 2022 I noticed a sharp rise in hiking interest in Azerbaijan. For example, whereas in 2014 it was still a fairly unknown activity with hiking tour groups mostly consisting of expats and foreigners, by 2022 it was becoming mainstream and the groups were mostly made up of young and adventurous locals. This was great to see as Azerbaijan really is tailor-made for outdoor, slow travel type adventures such as hiking.
The Mountains
That is because the country’s terrain – located at a crossroads of climate zones between north, south, east and west – is extremely varied. There are vast semi-deserts, untamed steppes, subtropical forests, salt lakes, the Caspian Sea (actually a lake) and otherworldly fields of mud volcanoes. But above all the country is over 50% mountainous, with not one but three major mountain ranges. These are incredibly beautiful and offer lots of different landscapes.
The Greater Caucasus Mountains run all the way across the north of the country. In fact, they stretch all the way from the Black Sea in Russia and Georgia to the Caspian coast of Dagestan and Azerbaijan. They have the highest peaks, the highest in Azerbaijan being Bazarduzu at 4,466m, and are populated by a plethora of tiny mountain peoples with their own languages and cultures – because for hundreds if not thousands of years the dramatic and almost impenetrable scenery isolated them from each other. Really, it’s only in recent decades that the remotest mountain villages of Azerbaijan have had decent roads constructed to them. Though some still don’t, and it’s remarkable to see how people still live in such secluded places.
The Lesser Caucasus Mountains cover the western and southwestern portions of Azerbaijan, as well as spilling across large parts of neighbouring Armenia and Georgia. In Azerbaijan its peaks are not quite as high as in the Greater Caucasus, but the landscapes are no less magnificent. And while they’re also less ethno-linguistically diverse, there are still some lovely old villages.
In the southeast, the Talysh Mountains, also covering much of northeastern Iran along the Caspian coastline, are an entirely different proposition. Much of them are covered by the Hirkan Forest, harbouring many different types of relict trees that survived the last Ice Age, the most iconic being the Persian ironwood. This is also one of the last habitats of the Caucasus (aka Persian) leopard – so rare that you certainly won’t encounter one! But what you will enjoy here are the charming villages set picturesquely on slopes and amid clearings in the forest, whose inhabitants are ethnic Talysh – a people speaking a language belonging to the northwestern Iranian branch of Indo-European languages. Typically, they cultivate the most delicious lemons and other citrus fruits and keep bees to make wonderful natural honey. Honestly, in my experience of travelling to almost all corners of Azerbaijan, the Talysh mountain villages of the far southeastern Astara region were among the country’s prettiest.
The Regions
Northeast
This area covers two regions which are hiking hotspots of the Greater Caucasus Mountains: Guba and Gusar. Guba is home to some of the most ethno-linguistically intriguing villages in Azerbaijan. Particularly Khinalig, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Griz, also inhabited by a distinct people and boasting a dramatic mountain top setting. Hiking between the two is one the best hikes in Azerbaijan. But there are several other ethno-linguistically distinct villages here, a few kilometres apart, which you can also hike between. The nearest small city with hotels and other conveniences is Guba.
Gusar is a little further north and borders Dagestan in Russia. This region is the homeland of Azerbaijan’s large ethnic Lezgi population. Lezgis are the country’s largest minority and of course have their own language, culture and in particular a distinctive local cuisine. Gusar also has the country’s highest peaks: Bazarduzu, Shahdag and Tufandag (in order), as well as the premier ski resort, Shahdag, where you can hike in summer. Near the ski resort is Gusar’s most famous village, Laza, beautifully set at the bottom of perfectly green slopes. Numerous hikes start or end here, and you can stay overnight in guesthouses. The nearest town is Gusar.
Northwest
This includes the naturally very beautiful regions of Sheki, Gakh and Zagatala; personally I love the nature of the northwest. Here the mountains are more lush and forested and harbour lots of historical ruins (for example of churches and fortified towers), scattered among the slopes, whose origins are mysterious. These regions are also very multicultural, with minorities including Avars, Ingiloys and Tsakhurs inhabiting rural villages.
In terms of hiking hubs, the village of Ilisu at the top of Gakh is beautifully set and popular with tourists. From here you can do short hikes to a waterfall and thermal springs in the mountains, or embark on a more serious 18km walk across the mountains to the village of Gashgachay. That trail is part of the massive 97km Mamrukh-Ilisu-Kish route which would perfectly suit anyone crossing into Azerbaijan from Georgia and is part of the Transcaucasian Trail, so detailed notes are available (here). The Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) is a network of hiking routes spanning the entire South Caucasus.
South
Covered by the Hirkan Forest and with a subtropical climate lower down, the Talysh Mountains provide an entirely different hiking experience to the Caucasus Mountains. The local villagers are typically of Talysh ethnicity and their villages have a quite different look and feel. And, the flora and fauna is markedly different; there is a special abundance of endemic tree species here, and this is the realm of the ultra-rare, almost mythical Caucasus leopard. Keen birdwatchers can also go in search of the shikra and Caspian tit.
I have done a few hikes here though like the northwest – not as much as I’d have liked, because the hikes I have done were really wonderful. In short, look out for any hikes passing through the village of Sim (Astara region), which is one of my favourite villages in Azerbaijan. Its Jurassic setting, strewn with massive stones, awash with exuberant flora, and dotted with the delightful white cottages where locals keep bees and grow every type of fruit tree imaginable – make Sim rather magical. And I’m sure there are more villages like it hidden away in the Talysh Mountains, covering the Astara, Lankaran and Lerik regions, waiting to be fully discovered.
West
The western section covers the Lesser Caucasus Mountains running through the regions of Goygol, Dashkasan and Gadabay. Goygol is famous for its national park, home to a dozen or so placid mountain lakes, the most iconic being Lake Goygol. There are hikes in the national park, including one to the famous peak of Mount Kapaz, which looms above Lake Goygol. I haven’t tried it but, again, would love to.
Beyond the national park there is an established, waymarked route between the Goygol and Dashkasan regions via the villages of Chiragli and Dastafur. Plus there’s a lovely trail further west from the village of Amirvar in Dashkasan all the way (20+km) to Soyugbulag village in Gadabay passing by the hilltop Maiden Tower castle ruins and crumbling Mahrasa church. The nearest big city is Ganja, Azerbaijan’s second city which is well worth exploring for a day or two, while Shamkir, Dashkasan and Gadabay are other towns where you can find food and accommodation. The latter two are up in the mountains.
Other Areas
The dazzling pink-and-white swirls of the Khizi Mountains, an eye-catching stretch of the Greater Caucasus Mountains near the Caspian coast about an hour’s drive north of the capital Baku, inspired British travel writer Mark Elliott (author of Azerbaijan: the Mark Elliott Guide – fully recommend) to dub them the Candy Cane Mountains and the name has stuck among travellers. I haven’t hiked here but I have driven through the landscape and it is remarkable. Hikes are available, though, and given the proximity to the capital, I’m sure an organised day trip would be a great option.
The difficulty of getting to Nakhchivan (you must fly via Baku or enter via Turkey or Iran) has meant hiking here has in the past been almost inaccessible. In short, Nakhchivan is an exclave cut off from Azerbaijan proper due to geopolitical complexities. However, in recent years the region has been increasingly opening up to tourism and beyond its many historical and culinary curiosities, hiking has to be a marvellous thing to do here. The Lesser Caucasus mountain landscapes are truly stunning and different to anywhere else in Azerbaijan. The terrain is more rocky and dramatic, as symbolised by the iconic Mount Ilandag (Snake Mountain), whose peak you can hike to. But you’ll need to arrange via a local tour operator like Naxcivan Travel.
Karabakh is largely off-limits to tourism due to the recent conflict and current redevelopment of the region. But in the future it’s likely to become a new hiking hub in southwestern Azerbaijan.
Top 5 Trails
Well, these are not actually the very best five in the country, since there are countless routes and it’s a matter of personal opinion. But these are five memorable hikes that I have done:
Khinalig-Galakhudat-Griz – a classic route in the Guba region, it takes you between two villages inhabited by peoples speaking different languages. What better way to experience the cultural diversity of the Caucasus Mountains? (Note that everyone speaks Azerbaijani also). The section between Khinalig and Galkhudat is extremely easy, while between Galakhudat and Griz it’s more challenging but the scenery is ever-changing.
Basgal-Lahij – these two villages are famed in Azerbaijan for their Silk Road crafts heritage, the former for silk dying and the latter for coppersmithing. This is a wonderful and quite challenging day-walk between them which is a great way to experience the majestic Ismayilli (north-central) section of the Greater Caucasus Mountains.
Tiny villages of the Hirkan Forest – this was a two-day hike I embarked on with the tour company Camping Azerbaijan going via some tiny isolated settlements in the heart of the Hirkan Forest. They didn’t feature on any map or have schools or electricity. It was eye-opening and enchanting.
Anything involving Sim (eg. Digo-Sim) – there’s lots of hiking to be done around the stunning mountain village of Sim. An easy one is to the Sim Waterfall, but you can also go between villages, for example to and from Sim and Digo. This is a lovely way to immerse yourself in the Talysh Mountains and Hirkan Forest.
Gashgachay-Ilisu – OK, so I haven’t actually done this one but I am very eager to try the Transcaucasian Trail section between Kish and Ilisu since it links two historic and wonderfully set villages and goes via a stunning, forested expanse of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. This particular trail is a long (18km) and challenging marked route ending in historic Ilisu.
How to Go Hiking
Some approaches:
The simplest one is to book a day or two-day hike through a hiking tour group via their Instagram or Facebook pages. The operator I typically used, which was/is very popular with expats and a pioneer of hiking tourism in Azerbaijan, is Camping Azerbaijan.
Alternatively, you can simply head to any of the aforementioned hiking hubs around the country and ask for a local who can guide you for an agreed price. You could definitely take this approach in Khinalig, Sheki, Laza and Ilisu, places well-used to accommodating tourists.
Unless you’re a very accomplished and experienced hiker I wouldn’t recommend going alone, for the reasons below…
Tips, Dangers & Practicalities
The weather can change rapidly so be equipped with appropriate clothes, including hiking shoes and waterproofs, and a water bottle. Storms can begin suddenly while the midday heat can be extreme in summer.
Seasons: generally in winter there’ll be snow at higher elevations while in summer it’s very hot and dry. Spring and autumn are optimal times to go hiking.
Be aware that the waymarking (yellow signs and red-and-white paint marks on trees and stones) may be damaged (by passing cattle) or otherwise hard to follow. Having a local guide is always best, if not essential.
You can almost always find accommodation in a rural village you pass through, though, whether in the form of a homestay or a guesthouse. Just ask around.
If you’re not on a tour, the best way to travel between rural villages and towns is by local taxi, though be sure to agree a price in advance.
I haven’t tried camping in Azerbaijan so I’m not too well informed about it. However, according to the Transcaucasian Trail, “wild camping is largely tolerated, though you may be visited by inquisitive locals if you set up your tent in a conspicuous location.” That said, if you’re in a national park, such as the Shahdag National Park or Hirkan National Park, which trails pass through in the north-east and south-east regions respectively, then I believe camping is illegal. But double-check before you go with the TCT, Azerbaijan Tourism Board or local tour operators.
There are bears in all parts of Azerbaijan’s mountains: brown bears, the largest predator in the Caucasus. However, there aren’t a huge number and they tend to keep well away from people. That said, I have heard a few tales of bears attacking local villagers who had encountered them unexpectedly at close quarters. If you were to encounter a bear, the one key piece of advice I was told (by a local nature specialist) was: don’t run, stay still and let it wander off.
Many of Azerbaijan’s mountain dwellers still live a semi-nomadic lifestyle; they live off the land, grazing sheep and cattle, and men move to the lowlands with their herds for the cooler months, migrating back in about May. They use specially bred Caucasian shepherd dogs to guard their herds from bears and particularly wolves, and said dogs are often extremely aggressive to outsiders. Therefore, you must keep well away from them, and if possible call the shepherd to signal your presence if/when you pass a flock, as the shepherds have complete control of their dogs.
More excellent practical advice can be found here on the Transcaucasian Trail website.
Also check out the page on hiking on azerbaijan.travel, run by the Azerbaijan Tourism Board.
Last Word
I hope this has given you a taste of what Azerbaijan offers in terms of hiking. On foot is a brilliant way to intimately discover remote parts of the country. You’ll encounter not just majestic mountain landscapes but also an extreme ethno-linguistic and cultural diversity. It’s not for no reason that the Caucasus Mountains are nicknamed the ‘Mountain of Tongues.’ What’s more, heading into the mountains will help you detox from the urban hustle and bustle and get back to a simpler way of life.
So Yaxshi yol! (Have a good trip!) as they say in Azerbaijan.