The scenic city of Bath in southwest England has the distinction of being the only UK city to be, as a whole, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Earlier this year I did a Bath day trip a couple of times to scope out its atmosphere, appearance and attractions. In short, I was eager to find out what makes Bath special – while also doing some street photography.
First impressions
On my first Bath day trip, I travelled by train. It took me just under two hours to reach Bath Spa railway station from my home to the west of London. I left early and arrived by 9.30am. And as per usual I first headed straight to the nearest cosy coffee shop for a quick caffeine fix while getting my bearings by studying the Bath city map.
Incidentally, Bath, like Cambridge, has a great many coffee shops, both of the local, independent sort and the nationwide/global chains. I was also pleased to see many bookshops as I wandered around the city.
Refuelled, I first ambled up towards the iconic Pulteney Bridge. And from there I continued round towards the city centre. At the heart of that is the Roman Baths – the very reason for Bath’s existence. And behind them is the UNESCO Heritage Centre, where a very kind and well-informed volunteer told me the story of Bath and what there is to see and do for visitors.
A brief history of Bath
I learnt that Bath is really a city of two eras: Roman and Georgian. The Romans founded the city in the 1st century as Aquae Sulis (The Waters of Sulis), named in honour of the Romano-Celtic goddess Sulis Minerva.
She was believed to reside within the three hot springs that bubbled up supernaturally from the bowels of the earth. The Romans built a temple to worship her, as well as public baths to allow its citizens to benefit from the healing waters. Said citizens came from disparate parts of the Roman Empire.
Fast forward many centuries and Bath experienced a revival in the Georgian (1714-1830) era, as people rediscovered the remarkable properties of the hot springs. The water is believed to contain 43 different minerals and while the Romans just bathed in it, the Georgians drank from it also.
Under the Georgians, Bath attracted a fashionable and health-conscious crowd and evolved into a new kind of pleasure town bridging the best of both city and country lifestyles. It became a place to be seen as much as to get well.
Thus the Georgians expanded the city beyond its historical centre, erecting monumental Palladian-style architecture harking back to the Romans themselves. It was all immaculately planned and the city seemed to grow naturally from the delightful surrounding scenery of valleys and hills.
This remarkable, overlapping heritage of Roman and Georgian eras is the main reason for Bath’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But Bath is also part of the Great Spa Towns of Europe UNESCO World Heritage Site.
What to do in Bath
Armed with this basic overview of the city, I then felt free to wander around and explore the city. And, as a result I can share these top things to see and do during a Bath day trip:
Walk with the Romans – Bath’s number one attraction, the Roman Baths are a fascinating trip 2,000 years back in time. Located partially underground, they were in use for 400 years from 70 AD onwards. The steamy Great Bath is the centrepiece, besides which there’s a wonderful museum where you can learn about the people who worked and frequented here. And, a Sacred Spring, which is where the Romans came to make offerings to their goddess, Sulis Minnerva.
Peruse the Pump Room – The Pump Room is a restaurant that’s been operating for over two centuries. In the Georgian days it was the heart of Bath’s social life. After treating their ailments in the curative baths, people would hobble up here to chat and listen to music. Celebrated writers Jane Austen and Charles Dickens were apparently regular visitors. As was Richard “Beau” Nash, a well-known socialite, gambler and fashion influencer of the 18th century who was Master of Ceremonies, or the unofficial “king of Bath.”
Admire the architecture – What immediately struck me about Bath, visible even from the train upon entering the city, is the stunning architecture everywhere. I honestly struggled to find an ugly building. All Palladian and neoclassical in style, the houses are slim and tall and show off the delightful honey-coloured local limestone. They sit inch-perfectly along arrow-straight streets and extremely picturesque crescents, squares and circuses.
Stroll around The Royal Crescent – This row of 30 townhouses is one of the outstanding highlights of Bath’s amazing architecture. The Grade I listed curving street was built between 1767 and 1774 and designed by leading local architect John Wood the Younger. It’s often described as one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in Britain. Formerly home to wealthy families, the houses have since all been divided into apartments. Except for one which is a hotel (The Royal Crescent Hotel Bath) and no.1, which is a museum showcasing the typical lifestyle of a wealthy local Georgian family.
Get a picture of Pulteney Bridge – Another architectural marvel is this iconic neoclassical bridge spanning the River Avon. Dating to 1769, it’s one of only 4 bridges in the world to have shops all along either side. Nowadays, those are a mix of cafes, restaurants and independent shops. Pulteney Bridge Coffee is a particularly cosy spot. The architect was Robert Adam, while the name honours Frances Pulteney, wife of the wealthy local landowner, William Johnstone.
Holbourne & other museums – Bath hosts a wide range of high-quality museums. The Museum of East Asian Art advertises itself as the only museum in the UK dedicated to the arts and cultures of China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. The Herschel Museum of Astronomy, meanwhile, is located in the former home of astronomer and musician William Herschel and his sister Caroline. It highlights their achievements, including the discovery of Uranus. The highly-rated Holburne Museum abounds with fine and decorative art housed in a Grade I listed Palladian mansion.
Look for literary heritage – Two more museums are devoted to outstanding British authors who spent time in Bath and both (for different reasons) somewhat disliked it. Jane Austen lived here between 1801 and 1806 and used the city as a setting in her novels Northanger Abbey and Persuasion. You can explore her connection with the city at The Jane Austen Centre or even take a Jane Austen-themed walking tour. Handily, only a few doors up on Gay Street is the Mary Shelly House of Frankenstein. That opened in 2021 in honour of the fact that Mary Shelley wrote much of Frankenstein, deemed the world’s first science fiction novel, during a six-month stint in Bath in 1816-1817.
Walk in parks – Another great thing the Georgian did besides building all the eye-catching Palladian architecture. Their idea was to create a city that harmoniously blended with the countryside. And their ambition was to make Bath one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Therefore, they created a lot of parks, which are still a joy to stroll around. The expansive Victoria Park begins beneath Royal Crescent, while Parade Gardens is a prime relaxation spot by the River Avon. And be sure to hike up the hill to Alexandra Park for the far-reaching views over the entire city.
Final thoughts
As you can see, there’s a lot to keep you busy during a Bath day trip and all within a walkable area, making it a great city to escape for a day to.
Plus, you could easily extend your trip by exploring the gorgeous countryside around Bath. Head out for long walks in the hills fringing the city. Or drive to pretty towns like the market town Bradford on Avon and historic villages such as Lacock and Norton St Philip. The latter is home to a 700-year-old pub (the George Inn)! What’s more, Bristol, another bustling city, is only about 10 miles away. You can even walk there along the River Avon Trail.
Overall, my abiding impression of Bath chimes with something I overheard another volunteer at the UNESCO centre say to some other tourists. He summarised it as “just a lovely city to have a walk around and have a look at.”
Some useful links
Finally, if I’ve piqued your interest enough to make you want to plan a Bath day trip, I would also recommend browsing these two very useful websites:
www.beautifulbath.co.uk
I enjoyed reading the second in particular.
And a top tip
A free two-hour walking tour starts every morning at 10.30 outside the entrance of the Roman Baths. You can find out more at www.bathguides.org.uk