This quick street photography guide to İzmir (aka Izmir) is based on a week I spent there in November 2022. Over a year has passed but I still fondly recall my time there. So without further ado, let’s dive in.

Intro

İzmir is the third largest city in Türkiye (aka Turkey) with a population of about three million people. It’s located beside the Aegean Sea on the country’s western coast. To sum it up in a nutshell, to me it felt like a more relaxed and run-of-the-mill version of Istanbul. There are far fewer landmarks and attractions but a more laid-back and authentic atmosphere. 

History

Though not immediately obvious given its abundance of new architecture, including some eye-catching skyscrapers, İzmir boasts a multilayered history spanning 3,000 years. This includes spells under the Roman, Byzantine, Timurid and several other smaller empires. In the 15th century it fell under Ottoman rule. And in the 16th century it grew into a port city of international significance. 

The 18th and 19th centuries brought much further expansion, shaping İzmir into an extremely cosmopolitan city. There was a large community of Greeks and to a lesser extent of Jews and Armenians, besides the majority Turkish residents. In fact the city was known by its old Greek name of Smyrna until 1930. By which point it had become part of the new Turkish Republic founded after the Greco-Turkish War by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in 1923.

Culture

İzmir is more a place to soak up the seaside atmosphere and enjoy shopping, cafe hopping and tucking into Turkish cuisine than to frantically rush around must-see attractions. However, you may wish to browse the following: 

The elegant Clock Tower stands 25-metres-high in the middle of the central Konak Square. It was designed by the French architect Raymond Charles Péré and unveiled in 1901. The purpose being to mark 25 years of rule by Ottoman Sultan Abdulhamid II.

A more quirky building is the Asansör, aka the Elevator Tower. That was erected in 1907 by the wealthy Jewish businessman Nesim Levi Bayrakli to connect two streets separated by a cliff in the Karataş neighbourhood. Nowadays there’s a cafe at the top with far-reaching views towards the Aegean. 

Elsewhere are the ruins of an ancient castle called the Kadifecale, which perches atop Mount Pagos overlooking the entire city. It dates back to the 3rd century BC and was supposedly set up by one of Alexander the Great’s generals. In addition, there’s a variety of mosques, synagogues, churches and museums to discover depending on your interests.

Street hotspots

Like any big city İzmir is made up of a multitude of districts and neighbourhoods. But as the city is large and really does sprawl, it would be worth focusing your street photography efforts on a few key areas. Otherwise you may end up, as I did, traipsing uphill for hours through seemingly endless, nondescript residential areas. I’d recommend sticking to the following places:

1. Konak Square & Kemeraltı Bazaar

This is the historical heart of İzmir where you should definitely devote a decent amount of time to browsing the big Kemeraltı Bazaar. That has its origins in the Ottoman era and I actually preferred it to the famous Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, because it’s not swarmed by tourists and people trying to flog you stuff. Plus, it’s the perfect place to grab a Turkish coffee, slice of baklava or succulent kebab. Next to the bazaar is Konak Square, dominated by the Clock Tower, which is equally a hive of activity. I often found myself coming back here looking for photographs. 

2. The Kordon

This was my favourite spot in İzmir, the long embankment stretching along the Aegean Sea from Konak Square all the way to Alsancak. It’s known locally as the Kordon and is descended upon daily by people of all stripes. Fishermen, families, lovers, students, walkers and joggers all come to sit, stroll and marvel at the sublime sunsets. Meanwhile, ferries toot their horns as they convey residents between İzmir’s districts, an old tram chugs characterfully along by the waterfront, and many restaurants and cafes line the far side of the promenade. There’s also a well-arranged Atatürk Museum to peruse.

3. Karşıyaka

This suburb is situated on the opposite side of the bay from Konak Square, the Kordon and Alsancak. Thus you need to take a ferry there, but that’s an experience in and of itself and also provides a chance to practise your street photography. Personally I loved how the evening sun would flood through the passenger cabins, creating all sorts of opportunities to play with light and shadows. Karşıyaka is a busy commercial and residential area with another long seaside promenade that’s packed with street life. The other main stage here for street photography is the long Karşıyaka Bazaar Street which bustles with shoppers and diners as it cuts directly inland. 

4. Alsancak

Apparently this area was inhabited by the wealthier residents in Ottoman times and still today it’s populated by lovely-looking apartments. This is where I’d seek to live if I was based in İzmir. Besides the quieter, more residential streets, Alsancak is also home to the long and lively shopping street Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi, which is chock-full with cafes, bars and restaurants. These attract large flows of young people and therefore Alsancak has an appealingly laid-back and youthful vibe.

If you have longer in İzmir, you may also wish to wander around Karataş (5.). In addition to being home to that Elevator Tower, this is the city’s historical Jewish neighbourhood. (İzmir has a unique Sephardic Jewish heritage which you can read about here.) Also consider Göztepe (6.), which hosts İzmir’s most popular football team and therefore gets especially animated on a match day.  

What makes İzmir unique?

For me this was definitely the proximity of the Aegean Sea, which lent the city a lovely ambiance. Plus it attracted much street life along its seaside promenades. And I very much enjoyed travelling on the ferries to different parts of the city. Reclining on their open decks and lapping up the sea breeze was one of my favourite things to do in İzmir.  

Getting there & around

The airport is quite far from the city itself. However it’s connected to the city’s metro system, allowing you to get there cheaply and easily. And once in the city it’s simple enough to travel around by bus, metro and tram. One ride costs less than half a euro. I used the trams mainly, along with the regular ferries going across the Aegean. Payment is made by means of the İzmirim Kart (meaning “My İzmir Card”), which you top up at special payment points. 

Final thoughts

İzmir is a very worthwhile place to spend a few days practising street photography. Especially if you’re interested in capturing everyday life in Türkiye and keen to avoid the relentless crowds of Istanbul. Its atmosphere was more easy-going and its people seemed a bit more open and friendly.

I found İzmir to be perfectly safe and didn’t encounter any problems taking street photos. That said, I’m not a particularly get-up-close kind of street photographer.

Early November was the perfect time to be there. The weather was still extremely sunny and warm, but not overly so. In terms of costs, I found Türkiye in general to be very reasonable in late 2022. Especially since the Lira had dropped in value considerably that year.

Finally, in terms of time, I found a week was too long to spend in the city itself. Therefore, I ended up hopping on trains to places in the wider İzmir Province. One day I explored Ephesus, the remarkably intact ruins of an ancient Greek and then Roman city (well worth it), followed by the nearby mountain village of Sirince – quaint but too touristy. And another day I ventured to the slow-paced coastal village of Foça – also very pretty but too sleepy for street photography. 

One more popular and accessible place to go beyond İzmir city is the highly-rated seaside resort town of Çeşme.